If the only light at an entrance is a security light, not only is it
unfriendly and glaring, but also it makes visitors feel like
trespassers. Framing the door with two wall lights, traditional or
modern, or an overhead lantern – ideally slightly dimmed to take the
edge off the glare – makes a far more welcoming approach. In a country
setting, without the additional lighting from surrounding streets, this
may not provide enough light. In this case, a soft uplight to planting,
filtering dappled light across the sides of the building, will soften
the starkness of the effect, although it will appear as if the wall
lights are doing the work. Lighting the side of a building is a good way
of creating some general light. Another way of emphasizing an entrance,
if wall lights are inappropriate, is with recessed uplights close to
the architrave of the door to emphasize this or to uplight a pair of
plants either side.
Having established the lighting of the entrance, the next thing to
think of is the approach. Lighting steps is important from a safety
point of view. If the steps have sides, then a discreet light can be set
into the wall to skim across each step, using a fitting with the lamp
set deeply within it and either an
LED or low-voltage
halogen light source
with a lens to direct the light and ensure minimal glare. Another way
to light steps is with spiked spotlights. Once again, the best results
are achieve when the light source is concealed, either by the
surrounding planting or by using a fitting in which the lamp is set well
back.
Floodlighting an
exterior can be a way of enhancing an approach, also creating reflected
light to illuminate a terrace. Avoid the standard approach of
floodlights offset from the building by several metres and directed
towards it, as not only will this create glare affecting anyone looking
out of the building, but it will also flatten any architectural details –
whether a column, window surround or old textured stone facade. A
subtle balance is required, because if the lighting is too close to the
building it will emphasize any imperfections on the surface. Any light
set into the ground will need some form of glare shielding, usually a
honeycomb filter or a louver.
It is not essential to light paths uniformly, but usually just as
changes of directions or every 10-15m. Shielded fixtures set 400 – 600
mm above the ground with the light directed towards the path are ideal.
The light may be those set in one direction or the old-fashioned
mushroom lights, which provide a soft 360-degree light over all
surrounding low-level planting and the pathway. In each case, both the
light source and the light fitting should be concealed amongst planting.
If there are no plants, other solutions can be explored, such as
setting light into a large stone ball to graze against the gravel, or
selecting a large freestanding floor lantern and concealing a light
source at the top so that the light floods out across the path.